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[brutus77]

Ok EBN peeps, Frankie is home and Brutus is tolerating him but every now and then he growls and barks at Frankie. I took them for a long walk when we first got home and they were fine, but in the house Brutus is being dominate. What do you suggest I do? I have them in their harnesses and leashes and I hold Brutus and my husband holds Frankie but I am nervous to let them off leash. Should I take them for another walk? I took up all the toys so they wont fight. I need suggestions. Right now they are both having a relax in their crates. They can see each other.

 

[Manydogs]

I was kinda' wondering how Brutus would do-after you telling that he wanted to bite, when you put his sweater on. Sounds like he is a bit too dominant in the home.When they wake up from their naps, I would take them out for another walk. If you have a fenced yard try the following in the yard--if not, you will have to do it in the house>> What I would do-though I've really never had a dog, who didn't accept new dogs-is Keep the new dog on the leash, and let Brutus loose(dragging his leash) to inspect and sniff him. Have someone there, ready to grab Brutus, if he tries to hurt the other dog. If that goes okay, I would keep the new dog leashed for awhile-and watch Brutus' reactions to him. It may take some time for Brutus to adjust to a new "competition", in his eyes.

 

[Vikinggirl]

Hi, I don't have any experience with this, as I have two that are siblings and litter mates, so they have been together since birth, and we brought them home at the same time. Mine are alos make and female, so i dont know if that makes a difference when they are both the same sex. I did look this up for you, and found some advice. I hope this helps, and that Frankie and Brutus soon become good friends.


Introducing a New Dog to Your Resident Dog





By Ken Piening

The introduction of unfamiliar dogs to other dogs may be a perilous journey. This can be very stressful for the dogs and the owners. But to help alleviate this stress, we must understand why the introduction is difficult for our dogs ...

(Note: For the sake of this article your new dog coming into the home will be referred to as the "New Dog". The resident dog will be referred to as the "Old Dog.")

When the new dog enters the home, territorial instincts tell the old dog that he is to defend his home. These territorial feelings are the reason why dogs can not meet "the wrong way." To understand the proper introduction, we must first realize that dogs live in a world of scent. Dogs rely on their keen sense of smell to introduce themselves to their surroundings. Therefore, training is based on their highly developed sense of smell. This is a difficult concept to grasp because humans depend on sight more than smell.

With this in mind, the home must be set up in a way that separates the two dogs so there is no visual contact. Visual contact creates posturing (a cold stare, growling and hackles raised). Dominant or submissive posturing immediately triggers a reaction in a the other dog and often leads to stress and tension between the two.

Introducing Two Dogs to Each Other in 4 Easy Steps

1. Place two cages in separate areas of the home (or use one cage and a laundry room). This is vital for a stress-free first meeting. Why? You use the cage as a training tool. The dogs, meanwhile, get a sense of comfort and security from the cage. It also important that the dogs do not make visual contact during this sensitive period. Instead of "meeting" each other visually, you will let them smell each other. This is done by placing a toy, tug, or even a blanket in their cages. These toys are called "scent articles". Then as you swap these scent articles from one dog to the other, it will allow them to create a deeper bond. This form of communication is the only way they truly understand -- communication through their nose!

2. Let the "new" dog roam around the house. This will allow him or her to get accustomed to a new home and group of humans (you). During this time, your "old" dog should be out of sight and harms way (under your control), because the newcomer will be exploring and leaving his scent on a territory that is still not his or her own.

The new dog should only be out of his cage for fifteen to twenty minutes, several times a day. This is plenty of time for him to check out his new environment and leave his own scent about the house. Then, when the new dog goes back in his cage, place the old dog's scent articles with him.

3. Switch the dogs. Meaning, the new dog goes into the confined area and the old dog is allowed to play. The first time the old dog comes out, he will vigorously explore the scent left around the home by the new dog until he is satisfied the intruder has "escaped." Your older dog might be overwhelmed and confused; this is when he needs your comfort. Allow him to sit on your lap or by your side as you read a magazine or a book, or perhaps while watching a rerun of Lassie (hey, the sound of another dog may serve him well). This quality time together is just what he needs during the scent discovery period.


To be truly effective, the old dog must be let out of the cage several times a day to understand the new smell -- though it should only occur after the new dog has played and been put away. The more you do these short routines, the faster they will familiarize with each other.

So when do you know your older dog is ready for a close encounter? He or she will no longer furiously follow around the new dog's scent around your home. This is a dog's implicit way of saying, "Okay, I'm comfortable with that other dog now. When can we meet?"

4. The face-to-face meeting should not, for territorial reasons, occur on your property. A neighbor's backyard, a ball park (when no other dogs or people might interfere), or any other enclosed area are far better places for the first meeting. And please do not think that leashes are sufficient enough to replace the security of an enclosed area; holding the leashes may in fact encite aggression in the dogs.

Instead, let the old dog run around the field (or other enclosed area), while the new dog is out of sight. Then switch and allow the new dog to play in the field while the old dog is out sight. Just like in your home, the dogs will detect a faimilar scent. Since the dogs have already been formally introduced via each other's scent, they are ready to meet face to face. And because the area is confined and safe, they will not have a need or be able to run away. Instead the dogs will run over to greet each other, smell, posture ... and will have no inclination to fight.

This stress-free and safe routine is the best way to introduce new dogs. In fact, it should easily work with trained or misbehaved dogs. You are allowing the dog's natural instincts and primary sense (smell) be the teacher, which is both simple and effective.

A dog's sense of smell is considered by many as its primary sense. Therefore, this training is based entirely upon the scent. This method will easily work with trained or misbehaved dogs. We are working hand in hand with the dog's natural instincts. Allowing the dog's instincts to teach the lesson will make learning simple yet efficient.

 

[Manydogs]

Well, this may be the way to go-but I have never done it, and it seems pretty dramatic to me. But, as I said, my dogs have always accepted a "new" dog after just a few minutes. I just tell them all is well. I guess I have been lucky all these years and all the dogs. I just never made a big deal out of it!

 

[brutus77]

I called the rescue and she said to keep them separated in the house for now and keep walking them together and they should adjust. We have been retraining brutus and he has stopped snapping at us when we put his sweater on him. he loves his treats and follows commands when rewarded. I will keep my fingers crossed that this works out.

 

[Manydogs]

Yes, i surely hope it works out for you! I know you are so excited to have another bullie! Happy that Brutus is better about his sweater! Maybe just take turns for now-letting them out of their crates! Wishing you the best! It WILL work out.It's only the first day.Some take a little more time , that's all. Just make sure Brutus still gets his normal attention-and keep your insides calm!

 

[Pati Robins]

It will take time hun ,great advice was already given -they both need to adjust to new situation they are both in .Just make sure Brutus is not feeling left out (and im sure hes not ) xx

 

[2BullyMama]

Walks are great... Helps them to learn they are a pack, if possible get another person to walk them with you

 

[nubonics]

My Boston Terrier Pug is very dominant and doesn't like new dogs. it took her about a month before she got use to Curly. She would just randomly bite him and sometimes drew blood. We didn't give up though.

It takes a bit of supervision when they are together and a bit of stepping in. Mi'me is toy aggressive so we started giving the toys to the dogs to play with. We would give Mi'me her first and then give curly his. When we saw she was going to go after curly for his toy we would step between her and curls and back her up. Eventually she would give up.

I was really worried that they wouldn't get along and they wouldn't be buddies but now that curly has been here for three months she has taken to him. She still has her moments but we knew things improved yesterday when I found them all laying together (I posted this in another thread). Time and patience. Mi'me is in the middle.

Mi'me never had a problem with sully because we had to introduce her to sully (aka the worlds most loving dog) when she was a pup

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[2BullyMama]

My Boston Terrier Pug is very dominant and doesn't like new dogs. it took her about a month before she got use to Curly. She would just randomly bite him and sometimes drew blood. We didn't give up though.

It takes a bit of supervision when they are together and a bit of stepping in. Mi'me is toy aggressive so we started giving the toys to the dogs to play with. We would give Mi'me her first and then give curly his. When we saw she was going to go after curly for his toy we would step between her and curls and back her up. Eventually she would give up.

I was really worried that they wouldn't get along and they wouldn't be buddies but now that curly has been here for three months she has taken to him. She still has her moments but we knew things improved yesterday when I found them all laying together (I posted this in another thread). Time and patience. Mi'me is in the middle.

Mi'me never had a problem with sully because we had to introduce her to sully (aka the worlds most loving dog) when she was a pup

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JeannieCO]

It took me almost 2 weeks of watching Emma with Sally. She wanted nothing to do with her and would keep charging at her like she was going to attack. They were always warning but Emma has a past with doing this with other dogs. She once tried to nip an 8 week and didn't like the puppies in the play classes either. We recently introduced my cousin's pup in with her again at our house. It took about 45 minutes of 100% supervision. Emma kept wanting to charge Harlow (she was 5 months old, a lab). What I do is own the other dog I'm introducing and Emma cannot accept it without going through me. I'll stand right in front of her. It took time but it worked.

 

[brutus77]

It took me almost 2 weeks of watching Emma with Sally. She wanted nothing to do with her and would keep charging at her like she was going to attack. They were always warning but Emma has a past with doing this with other dogs. She once tried to nip an 8 week and didn't like the puppies in the play classes either. We recently introduced my cousin's pup in with her again at our house. It took about 45 minutes of 100% supervision. Emma kept wanting to charge Harlow (she was 5 months old, a lab). What I do is own the other dog I'm introducing and Emma cannot accept it without going through me. I'll stand right in front of her. It took time but it worked.

Right now I have them seperated. Do you not suggest I do this? Brutus looks like he wants to kill him.

 

[JeannieCO]

Right now I have them seperated. Do you not suggest I do this? Brutus looks like he wants to kill him.

Oh gosh no, I would definitely, keep them separated. And when not separated they both need to be kept harnessed at all times. If they get into a fight you want to be able to pull them off safely. I went through almost an entire year of Jack and Wilson fighting, it was horrid and we were always on pins & needles. They’re much better but it was hard getting through it. Wilson has a drive too. He’s loves other dogs but if put in the wrong situation, excitement of any kind, he will attack Jack and Wilson has the drive to not stop fighting. Emma didn’t have that look like she actually wanted to kill them. She did jump Harlow from behind when Harlow wasn’t even looking. I yanked her off before it went any further than a fight. Brutus is going to keep testing Frankie for dominance. Keep walking, and keep working with them both, Frankie included.

 

[brutus77]

Oh gosh no, I would definitely, keep them separated. And when not separated they both need to be kept harnessed at all times. If they get into a fight you want to be able to pull them off safely. I went through almost an entire year of Jack and Wilson fighting, it was horrid and we were always on pins & needles. They’re much better but it was hard getting through it. Wilson has a drive too. He’s loves other dogs but if put in the wrong situation, excitement of any kind, he will attack Jack and Wilson has the drive to not stop fighting. Emma didn’t have that look like she actually wanted to kill them. She did jump Harlow from behind when Harlow wasn’t even looking. I yanked her off before it went any further than a fight. Brutus is going to keep testing Frankie for dominance. Keep walking, and keep working with them both, Frankie included.

Brutus would all of a sudden lunge growling and barking and trying to nip his legs. I Do have them both harnessed. Brutus is now getting curious and will go up to frankies crate with his tail wagging the whole time so maybe that is s good sign

 

[JeannieCO]

Remember that tail wagging isn't always a friendly sign. Do you have Frankie's crate in the middle of the room or is it against the wall? If you can put it in the middle somewhere do that. That was how we introduced Sally and I gave them room to completely check them out. Seem to work really well. Brutus sounds a little bit like Emma was. The lunging in the growling and the barking. It's very important, and I'm sure you're doing this already, 2E immediately let Brutus know that that is not acceptable. You could give them a firm no, or if you're able to submit him, you can do that as well. I did a combination of both with Emma.

I'm glad there harnessed. There were times that we on harness them because we thought they were doing okay, then all of a sudden Jack and Wilson would get into another fight for reason S me just talking the neighbor when I got home from work and then be an outside and just being excited.